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Few burglars can afford to risk exposure during the time required to pick even relatively easy locks, and unexplained possession of lock picking tools is often considered prima facia evidence of criminal intent. Criminals generally prefer either procuring a key or forced entry for speed, certainty, and stealth, notwithstanding whatever property damage or evidence is left behind. From the attacker's perspective, too, lock picking is rarely the most efficient, most economical, fastest, or easiest method of entry. Surreptitious entry (e.g., for espionage or law enforcement surveillance) is likewise often best accomplished by obtaining a key or through the use of specialized decoding or bypass tools designed to quickly and quietly defeat the locks used by the target. Good tools are important, to be sure, but once a few basic tools are available the student of lock picking is usually better off investing in new locks on which to practice rather than in new picking tools. The basic algorithm for picking locks is remarkably simple: - Apply a small amount of torque to the plug. Not all locks use a physical key. If you tried to rotate the plug of such a lock without a key in the keyway, the top pin segment of each pin stack would block the plug at exactly the same number of degrees of rotation; each pin stack would contribute equally to preventing the plug from turning.

Other names for the torque tool are turning tool, torque wrench, torsion wrench, and tension wrench. If this pin stack is slowly pushed up with torque applied to the plug, eventually its cut will reach the shear line and the plug will turn a bit more. Typical commercial and residential locks have five or six pin stacks (although four and seven aren't unheard of), with from four to ten distinct cut depths used on each. Picking locks requires skill, practice, and the use of rather unusual (and not widely available) tools. Two of the tools orient the handle perpendicular to the keyway and two orient the handle vertically. Picks probe and lift the individual pin tumblers through the keyway, while torque tools control the degree and force of plug rotation. Since the Sun carries the vast majority of the entire mass of the solar system, any force which moves it is likely to drag all of the planets along with it. The principles and skills of lock picking, once mastered, can be applied against the vast majority of commercial pin tumbler locks, and the basic tools, if somewhat unusual, are quite simple.

The basic skills of pin tumbler lock picking include selecting the proper tools, manipulating pins through the keyway, applying torque, and recognizing the state of each pin. The basic design consists of a rotatable cylinder tube, called the plug, linked to the underlying locking mechanism. Rotation of the plug within the shell operates the locking mechanism. The top pin of the most misaligned pin stack becomes "pinched" at the shear line between the plug and the shell. In particular note that because the pins are slightly out of alignment, as the plug is turned gently, only the pin stack that is most out of alignment actually prevents further rotation. In practice, of course, locks aren't perfect: the pin holes in the plug are slightly out of alignment with respect to the shell and the pins and pin holes are each of a slightly different diameter. In an ideal lock, all of the pin holes in the plug would be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the shell, the centerline of the plug would be exactly parallel to that of the shell, and all of the pins would be exactly the same diameter. It's possible that the plug will turn as soon as you set the first pin; if this happens, it's because you inadvertently lifted the other pin with the shaft of your pick while you were working on the first one.

Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. See Figure 2. The plug will be blocked from rotating if any pin stack is lifted either not far enough (with the cut still in the plug below the shear line) or too far (with the cut pushed above the shear line and into the shell); to rotate, all pin stacks must have a cut at the shear line. Each pin stack is cut in one or more places perpendicular to its length. Pin tumbler lock picking consists of raising the cuts on each pin stack to the shear line, one by one, until the plug turns freely. The plug can rotate freely only if the key lifts every pin stack's cut to align at the border between the plug and shell. The height (or cut depth) of a key under each pin stack position is called its bitting; the bitting of a key is the "secret" needed to open a lock. Repeat until lock turns: - Locate the pin stack that's being pinched at the shear line (it resists slightly when pushed up) - Continue to push that pin stack up until its cut reaches the shear line and the plug turns slightly.

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